Segovia is a small city northwest of Madrid. I reached it via a two hour train journey from Madrid-Chamartin. The day started badly when I misjudged how long it would take to reach Chamartin from my hostal, and arrived at the station only in time to give a two-fingered wave goodbye to my intended train. A warm, sunny day, ideal for a day trip out of the capital, and I have to wait two hours for the next train.

But that was the only disappointment I encountered, and my patience was to be rewarded with a day that proved to be the unexpected highlight of my holiday. My Rough Guide had talked up Toledo, somewhat overdoing it I thought, so I had toned down my expectations for Segovia.

Fear not. As the train left the suburbs behind, the snow-capped Sierra de Guadarrama came into view to the north. The train climbed ever higher along the sides of a large valley, the train stopping first at large towns, then small mountain halts, with the soaring operatic music playing over the train's PA system adding the dramatic touch (Ride Of The Valkyries anyone?).

Suddenly we were on the other side of the mountains, looking across the huge fertile plains towards the city. The fantastic vista meant it was almost a disappointment to have to get off as Segovia neared.

Like Toledo, the train station at Segovia is some way out in the new town outside the old city walls. A 20 minute walk brought me on to the blahstreet, and I headed towards the Roman aquaduct. I was half expecting a crumbling, messy pile of stones bearing little resemblance to anything created by a empire builder, but my cynicism was misplaced. As I rounded the curve in the street, the part of the aquaduct appeared between the buildings.

It is magnificent. Unsupported by any cement, the stones rise up to form a splendid series of arches, stretching across the plaza towards the mountains. The aquaduct was still in use until the 1960s. Despite several alarms about the damage being inflicted by 20th century life, there is not a crumling pile of stones in sight. The sheer scale of the aquaduct is awesome, and against a backdrop of clear blue skies and mountains, is fantastic viewing from all angles.

Several photos later, I dragged myself away towards Plaza Mayor at the centre of the old city. The square is dominated by the cathedral, a huge honey-coloured building. The bright sun reflected off the grey stones across the square, making it look like snow had fallen. At its centre was a bandstand, something I hadn't expected to see. The square seemed an oasis of calm away from the frenzy of Puerta del Sol in Madrid.

Next stop was the Alcazar, a moorish fortress at the opposite end of the city from the Aquaduct. The building is in excellent condition - the original 11th century fortress was destroyed by fire in 1840 and subsequently rebuilt.

I was feeling a little weary when I returned to the station in the evening, but hey, I had that journey to enjoy all over again :).